THe Harwood Arms | Time out review

“Someone has been reading too many copies of Country Living. Hessian napkins tied with raffia, wobbly cream crockery designed by Sophie Conran – is this really the sort of frippery people want in a pub? To be fair, we are in Fulham, and if the decor has been inspired by the style bible ‘for people whose heart is in the country’ (ie, most of them live in zones four, five or six on the tube map), then so has the pub itself. West Londoners who scoot down the M4 to the Pot Kiln in Yattendon, Berkshire, have been so vocal in their praise for Mike Robinson’s gastropub that they’ve persuaded him to open a similar place in the capital. Traffic must be bad. But the Harwood Arms is not a solo venture. Like a 1960s rock supergroup, sometime TV chef Robinson, who is a specialist in game, has joined with Brett Graham of Notting Hill’s excellent Ledbury restaurant, and Edwin Vaux, a publican and fellow hunter. Neither Robinson nor Graham mans the kitchens: head chef is Ledbury graduate Stephen Williams. But the Robinson stamp is apparent, not only in the quantity of game on the menu but the fact that he shoots all the deer himself on estates near Hungerford and Henley. For once the claim of ‘seasonal, local and natural produce’ is fully realised. Our bread ‘basket’ looked like a skullcap lost from the wardrobe department of ‘Robin Hood’. Within it hid a few scraps of bread the Sheriff of Nottingham’s prisoners would have scowled at, but from there things quickly improved. Smoked trout with leeks vinaigrette arrived looking prettier than half a fat, boiled leek has any right to be, daubed with salad cream (not Heinz) and scattered with tiny crisp croutons and wild sorrel. The signature venison T-bone was superb with the nutty crunch of black cabbage (cavolo nero), but didn’t need its thin mushroom ketchup, let alone one in a dinky individual bottle (enough with the poncey styling, boys, please). Because we didn’t fill up on bread, there was still room for Bramley apple doughnuts with spiced sugar – and they were every bit as good as you’d hope. We’re satisfied the owners haven’t forgotten this is a pub – Black Sheep bitter and Ruddles County plus a guest ale (Good Old Boy from the West Berkshire Brewery, say) are on draught; our concern is the locals who think the Harwood Arms is a wine bar. Even the party of broad-shouldered Sebastians and Henrys who came in only ordered halves as an aperitif. Will they have the support from customers to keep the ales in good condition? We hope so. Minus a raffia bow or two, this is a terrific place.” Jenni Muir Time Out (London Edition), 4-10 December (see review online)